Royal J&K exudes a special brand of ambience for visitors unused to such a quality presentation. The walkway from the car park to the clubhouse entrance, the magnificent facilities inside and out (one of the best traditional locker rooms you will find around the world), the terrific short-game practice area in front of the clubhouse. The East is a pure championship golf layout from start to finish, a classic design to revere. The par-5 first is a relatively gentle opener, albeit with a tricky rumpled green, but after that the bar is raised substantially. There’s width off the tee to keep you in play, but the approach shots to fast-paced greens are demanding and it’s not a course where you can hide your frailties.